Mark Hopkin’s original mansion

In recent years Michael Portillo has moved into the realm of being a harmless and almost likeable train-based travel presenter.  It was in one of his recent adventures he found himself admiring the views and a enjoying a drink at the famous ‘Top of the Mark’.  This being the bar and former penthouse atop the Mark Hopkins hotel. next door to my hotel.  I can recall seeing Portillo sipping on cocktails up there, so I headed across the street and to the top floor of “The Mark” to enjoy my first meal, the local ales and a beautiful night time view of the city from all angles.

I have often heard in business circles, how during the gold rush era, the folks who got rich were not the ones finding the gold, but the ones selling the shovels.  This is literally how Mark Hopkins got started before moving into railway tycoonery.  He built an imposing mock-Goth Victorian wedding cake house on the city’s most prime location, but died before its completion.

Mark Hopkins Hotel (Bobak Ha’Eri)

The Mark Hopkins Hotel bears his name and was opened on the same plot of land in 1926. In fact. by the turn of the 20th century, several of America’s wealthiest men had built their gaudy mansions on the Hill, giving it the name ‘Nob Hill’, derived from ‘nabob’, meaning a person of conspicuous wealth.

The earthquake of 1906 destroyed all but the one house owned by businessman James Clair Flood, a brownstone building which still occupies the entire block opposite the Fairmont.

It is now the home of a one of America’s oldest traditional members-only clubs, (for traditional, read men only). This club retains a great deal of secrecy, having no website, and places restrictions on its members preventing them from discussing the club.  Known members apparently include, or have included William Randolph Hearst, Mr Hewlett and Mr Packard (Hewlett-Packard, obvs), Bill Gates, countless Secretaries of Defence, politicians and key industry leaders.  Insert conspiracy theory here.

James Flood Mansion (1940, A. J. Wittlock)

Such an opulent retreat for unbelievably wealthy, principally republican, principally white men seems at odds with the city surrounding it.  Whist the concept of such a place doesn’t sit well with me, I would love to have overheard some of the conversations and deals that took place in there.

Street View

I had hoped the ‘Top of the Mark’ would be a restaurant as I was starving, however it functions primarily as a bar and cocktail lounge serving overpriced drinks and bar snacks to the likes of me.

It was very busy, and I had to wait 20 minutes or so to be seated, however the maitre d’ must have taken pity on this weary solo traveller as he was kind enough to give me the best table in the room, and the same spot enjoyed by the former Shadow Chancellor.

The views are impressive, although in my case the north-eastern aspect was obscured by a large American family (and their dog).  When I say large, I should clarify, there were only four of them, but they were massive.

I finished my long day with a couple of glasses of the local Anchor Steam brew, which I can highly recommend.